Friday, 2 March 2012

paris fashion week – dries van noten & nina ricci


It's Fashion Friday, folks, and today I'm giving you two opposites from the Paris Fashion Week: Dries Van Noten and Nina Ricci. Above you see Dries Van Noten's West meets East masculine tailoring and below Peter Copping for Nina Ricci's feminine and French take on dressing up.

The PFW is in full swing and there are so many designers to choose from. Of course I, the loyal foreign citizen of Antwerp, am featuring Dries Van Noten who showed his AW12-13 Collection on Wednesday. Let me add that I would feature him whether I lived in Antwerp or not, he's definitely one of my favourites. I almost prayed last night that The Sartorialist would post some photos from the show because I knew he attended it (yes, Garance Doré was there too), and when I woke up this morning I saw that he had. His are the two bottom photos. However, I always find up-close photos from Dries Van Noten's shows much better because he is all about the details; they are one of his greatest strength. His show took place in the Hôtel de Ville, which according to Tim Blanks of Style.com "has to be the most beautiful town hall in the world." That's what the man said and I'm not arguing with him! Just see for yourself by watching the video below. He also said in his review:

In its glory days, Antwerp was a crossroads of the world, a place where the exotica of far-off lands collided with the European familiar, and, like the good old hometown boy that he is, Dries has always had a knack for capturing that collision. Today, for instance, he weighed the fragility of kimono silks with the roughness of military khaki or the sturdiness of gray flannel. The master touch was a filigree of gold embroidery: Storks took flight across a belted military blazer; a phoenix coiled down the sleeve of another jacket. There were golden dragons elsewhere. These were clothes to spark dreams. But a man-tailored topcoat in burnt-orange alpaca wasn't far behind. Maybe not contemplative, but definitely serene.
[black text, mine]

By the way, the make-up was in the hands of Peter Philips, the global creative director of Chanel Makeup, who is Dries Van Noten's fellow Belgian. More on that in this short video.


Now let's move on to Peter Copping for Nina Ricci, a fashion house I've loved since forever. The AW12-13 Collection which he showed at the PFW yesterday was everything I expected it to be, feminine and also flirtatious. I absolutely loved the shoes and boots. Sarah Mower said in her review for Vogue.com:

What has the Nina Ricci girl been up to since we last saw her? Playing in her mom’s closet—a French closet, full of tweeds, little black dresses, furs, lingerie, and jewelry, that is. Some of it might well have belonged to granny (with the falling-apart ball gowns and all) and, quite possibly, given the quite enviably sexy outcome of her playtime improvisations—slit skirts, see-through this-and-that, a certain rumpled-hair dishabille look—she’s just on the brink of being up to no good.
[black text, mine]
I think that pretty much sums it up.


Before publishing this post I was hoping that someone would put a video from the show online and ELLE TV came to my rescue:



During the fashion weeks season it would come in handy to have more Fridays in the week for my Fashion Friday posts. Today at the PFW we will see the collections from Dior, Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel, and Lanvin, just to name a few. Let me just add that I'm not skipping the Milan Fashion Week, just jumping over it for now.

On a personal note, this day started with yummy chocolate muffins, as it's our oldest daughter's birthday. I cannot believe she has turned 12. I've been saying lately that the world clock must have gone wrong, this simply cannot be right! 

Have a fabulous Friday!

photo credit:
1-12: Yannis Vlamos for Vogue US
13-14: Scott Schuman - The Sartorialist at Dries Van Noten
15-26 : Monica Feudi for Vogue US

YouTube: Style.com / Dries Van Noten
YouTube: ELLE TV / Nina Ricci

12 comments:

  1. A fabulous Friday to you, too! and Happy Birthday to your daughter :)

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  2. Happy bday to your daughter!! Such a fun age. LOVE this post... the clothes are divine. xo

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  3. I have to agree: Hotel de Ville Paris is one of the most wonderful buildings and I remember that passing by with no touristic chart, I asked people on the street what is that building :D! I like how you presented the two designers and the obvious discrepancy between them: the photos you chose are wonderful, but if I have to choose, I would say Nina Ricci, so fluid, so feminine, so chic even if it's grandma's wardrobe :))))! Dear Lisa, have a wonderful weekend and all the best for your daughter's birthday! Kisses :)

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  4. Two of my favorites! You're definitely right. I prefer close up photos of Dries Van Noten collection because the details are always spectacular.

    Also, you're probably not surprised by this, but I'm a Nina Ricci girl. Have been forever. The whimsical femininity just speaks to me. Another stunning collection. :)

    Have a wonderful weekend, Lisa! And happy birthday to your daughter. I hope you all enjoy a celebratory weekend! xoxo

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  5. First of all, Happy Birthday to your daughter, Lisa! I am sure your chocolate muffins were a hit. :)

    These are my favourite shows from PFW until now. I had a feeling you would feature Dries Van Noten, as I know he's one of your favourites. I love your selection from both collections, especially the close-ups and videos: until I see these it's like I don't see the collections at all. Enjoy the rest of your Friday, Lisa! xo

    PS: have I told you how much I enjoy your Fashion Fridays? :)

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  6. It's interesting that Kinder Aggugini used the same concept of girl dressing up in her mum's clothes for his Spring 2012 collection, only his girl was more of a rock chic baby. :)
    And Dries will always be Dries, it's not always me, but it's always stunning. xxx

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  7. Lovely fashion mix!!!

    ♥ Franka

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  8. Hotel de Ville is one of my favourite buildings in Paris (all my Paris photos feature at least 1 shot of it)! I'm not usually into the soft nude silks like those in the Nina Ricci show, but I think these might have converted me. And naturally I am swooning over those shoes! Have a lovely weekend Lisa!

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  9. First Congratulations with your daughter! Hope it has been a wonderful birthday for her. Starting off with chocolate muffins was the best choice;)
    Second, I adore both showed collections. The details at Dries van Noten were amazing, love the prints and the colorpalets. The skirt over the trousers might be the only thing I don't like. Nina Ricci was so feminine and sexy. Great choices for your fashion friday :) Hope you have a great weekend!

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  10. I loved all of rich hues in the Dries Van Noten collection; the navy, burnt orange and khaki look gorgeous when mixed together. Nina Ricci's show was also lovely + thank you for sharing the videos! Happy birthday to your daughter - how time flies when you're having fun ;) ! Have a wonderful weekend Lisa xx

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  11. What a beautiful post Lisa - I too am a big fan of Dries, and I agree the close-up details shots are the best way to appreciate his designs. Nina Ricci was pretty gorgeous also! Your chocolate muffins sound yummy, I must give them a go. :)

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  12. LOVE the Nina Ricci collection!
    Omg, the shoes
    *swoon*

    A happy Saturday dear :)
    Signe

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