Wednesday, 4 July 2012

notes à la mode 05

Before I start, let me say to all my American readers and blog friends: Happy 4th of July! I hope you all enjoy a wonderful day with loved ones. It's the fifth NOTES À LA MODE and today it's all about Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections. In case you didn't know it's Couture Week in Paris and today I'm waiting to see what Elie Saab and the house of Valentino will show us. Are you following the shows?

Atelier Versace started the Couture Week at the Ritz on Sunday and Donatella Versace impressed me with her collection. She showed many short figure-hugging dresses, which I'm not a fan of, but they were beautiful. The floor-length ones with the thigh-high slit were the ones that I really fell for and the colour palette was to my taste. Donatella has been receiving raving reviews for her show and I think they are well deserved (Sarah Mower at Vogue US said she had gotten her mojo back). I chose three photos for this post but I could easily have picked more. Bravo Donatella!

I loved Chanel's 'New Vintage' invitation for the show, a sketch by Karl Lagerfeld of Coco Chanel. I wouldn't have minded receiving one myself! Lagerfeld's collection was elegant. The colour palette was mainly grey and pink and the details were beautiful. I was particularly fond of the trousers.

This was the atmosphere right before Raf Simons's debut for Dior (screenshot by me of the live streaming). By the way, the walls are covered with fresh flowers. The show was held in five rooms and they all looked like that except the colour was different in each. So, it was not exactly less is more when it came to decorating the rooms. I only wish the same had applied to the creation of the collection.

I'm not going to say that I was disappointed because the design was beautiful; I was just hoping to see some fireworks, to be wonderfully surprised. Instead it was a minimalistic, very ladylike Jil-Sander-meets-old-Dior collection, as far away from the Galliano-extravagance as possible. Frankly speaking, I was a little bored until the tenth model walked down the runway in that red coat. I haven't viewed any close-ups yet, but as I said, the design was beautiful, I just wasn't expecting it to be minimalistic and so full of embellished peplum tops.

At some point the live streaming failed so I turned to Twitter to see what was going on. People either seemed to like the show or be disappointed. I have to add that I'm a bit surprised by all the good reviews so I'm wondering if this was one of those you-had-to-be-there moments.


  Giambattista Valli has proven that he knows how to do couture. His colour palette was mainly red and green and some models appeared on the runway with butterfly lips. I was drawn to this gorgeous green dress and also the belt. I love Valli's belts
  Ulyana Sergeenko showed her Haute Couture AW12 Collection (preview to the right) in Paris and it was oh so Russian. She is one of those style icons out there, always so feminine, and loved by the street style photographers. Many of the pieces in her collection reminded me of what she likes to wear herself
  The Haute Couture AW12 Collection by Christophe Josse had some interesting pieces, for example this white dress 
  Here is a little sneak peek into the house of Schiaparelli's freshly renovated Place Vendôme atelier. The reborn fashion house will be showing it's first collection, haute couture, in January. Yes folks, it really is happening. Now they are looking for a designer and I just want someone to call them and let them know that Galliano is probably available. Man, how I miss Galliano on the couture runway!

photo credit:
1-3: Atelier Versace collection via Vogue Italia
4-7: Chanel collection via Vogue Italia
8: screenshot from Dior's live streaming
9-12: Dior collection via Vogue Italia
13: Ulyana Sergeenko collection via Vogue Italia


  1. I agree with everything you said. I am still browsing the latest collections I haven't had a chance to see. So far I am most impressed by Givenchy - it took my breath away, as it always does.
    Have a great day!

    1. I just made some tea and was about to look at Armani and Givenchy before picking up the kids ;-)

  2. I am totally following Haute Couture week - as a designer and dressmaker and of course a spectator. I liked Donatella's offering, which was kind of a nod to the Gianni look - all glossy bouncy wavy hair, beautiful coloured gowns and thigh high splits. Raf was restrained at Dior, but the focus was definitely on the shape and the sculptural element which was beautifully executed. Some of that soft pink with the soft grey at Chanel just was blah for me...I was disappointed here (oh Karl!)... I was admiring the jacket detail over of Givenchy earlier today. And I haven't seen Armani yet, and am looking forward to Valentino and Gaultier - aaah, I love haute couture - as fanciful as it is. Have a great day:) PS: made those delicious biscotti yesterday... mmmm

  3. As I've already told you I was also expecting more than a nod to both his last collection at Jil Sander (I had a hunch there from the moment they announced the new creative designer at Dior) and the designs of Christian Dior himself from Raf Simon's debut collection at Dior. I wasn't even that enthusiastic before the show, because usually when there is much ado about something...
    My favourite collections so far were Giambattista Valli and Givenchy (a few of the designs are breathtaking).
    I've kept on postponing talking about the revival of the Elsa Schiaparelli fashion house on my blog, but as long as you've brought it up, may I name my choice? It's Galliano of course. :)

  4. I'm loving the colors and silhouettes at Chanel. Gorgeous!