Thursday, 5 July 2012

notes à la mode 06


Two NOTES À LA MODE in one week? I know, I couldn't help it, it's the couture season and my couture heart has no patience to wait a whole week to post the gorgeousness from Givenchy and Elie Saab. Let's put it this way: It's my couture party and I post if I want to.

GIVENCHY
Riccardo Tisci. What can I say? His name must serve as an adjective to describe what he presented in Paris this week. The Givenchy Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Collection stands out, it's a stark contrast to all the couture prettiness we are seeing on the runway - it's on another level. To me, this is what haute couture is all about.


Prettiness is fine, and there will always be designers that will focus on that, but I want a little drama in haute couture. I want to be surprised with something extraordinary. In his review for Vogue US, Hamish Bowles notes:
Riccardo’s couture pieces may not be designed for Everywoman, or even for everyday life, but with each collection he pushes the boundaries of what is breathtakingly possible when the greatest and most extravagant refinements of skilled handwork are applied to silhouettes and concepts that are sci-fi modern.
[grey font, mine]

Pushing the boundaries is exactly what Tisci did. The craftsmanship is unbelievable. I also love the fact that he only created ten pieces, ten really strong pieces.


The photographs deserve attention and the styling deserves a praise. Apparently, when designing this collection, Tisci "looked to the imposing sculptural drama of Hubert de Givenchy’s statement sixties evening dresses—and married that to an idea of contemporary gypsy style" (Bowles). These photographs also give the collection a tribal vibe and there is a dark element in them, but not scary dark. I find it mysterious and fascinating.

Now it is time to look at some couture prettiness.

ELIE SAAB

Elie Saab knows how to do elegant haute couture. His feminine dresses are what we expect from the guy, but how he manages to nail it every time without repeating himself is beyond me. This is only a very small portion of what he presented in Paris yesterday, on his birthday. I get the feeling that we will be seeing quite a lot of pieces from his collection on the red carpet next winter. I'm already looking forward to the Golden Globes, the Oscars and the crème de la crème, the Cannes Film Festival next spring.


NOTES À LA MODE 06 LINKS

  Did you see the news about Dolce & Gabbana's couture collection that will be revealed in Sicily later in July?
  If you cannot get enough of haute couture then here is a link to the Valentino AW12 collection, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli
  If you like trousers then take a look at the cuts in the Armani Privé collection. Giorgio Armani knows how to design trousers
  Zuhair Murad has many fans and I don't think his couture collection will disappoint any of them
  During fashion weeks the street style is always something I enjoy. Phil Oh captured these photos in Paris
  Now that the Paris Couture Week is over you can enjoy the rest of the Berlin Fashion Week

photo credit:
1-8: Givenchy collection via Vogue US
9-10: Givenchy collection via Vogue Paris
11-17: Elie Saab collection via Vogue Italia

6 comments:

  1. I'm not complaining about another Notes A la Mode instalment this week- Givenchy; that second outfit is divine- look at the detail at the hip and back! I've just spend half an hour checking out the links...and I love the midnight blue colour that Valentino have showcased - a good option other than black; Dolce e Gabbana doing Haute Couture- how much over the top can they be? I can't wait to see those outfits. Hope your day is going great... :)

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  2. You changed your blog around a bit, huh? I like it! Bigger photos too? Looks great. Those Elie Saab dresses are so feminine and beautiful. xo

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  3. What a treat! Two Notes a la Mode posts in a week! I won't comment much about the Givenchy collection as I want to blog about it too, just want to say that I agree with you and Hamish Bowles: THIS is what haute couture should be about. I'm all for wearability in fashion, but let's leave it to the ready to wear lines, shall we? Haute couture is something else.
    I haven't seen the latest collections yet, so I can't comment much about those. :)

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  4. My most favourite ones. This is what I call Couture - a feast for the eyes and play of imagination and skills.
    In addition to the fashion news - Anna just had a meal/drink with Galliano in Paris. I so so so hope something good will come out of it. :)

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  5. beautiful. I really really like the Givenchy collection. thansk for sharing. I wouldn't go look for it myself but I truly enjoy looking at it here :)

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  6. I loved the Givenchy Collection + Elie Saab is a firm favourite; I am always delighted to see how his collections evolve season after season xx

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